tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28426796276725870792024-03-14T00:35:08.257-07:00A Fish Needs A StereoVintage & quality audio gear I work on, music I like, and just a bit of hoarding.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.comBlogger63125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-89616240701385330962023-11-08T16:25:00.000-08:002023-11-08T16:25:43.032-08:00Cleaning Turntable Speed ControlsMany turntables and other stereo equipment have variable resistors (often called pots, short for potentiometers, or variable resistors). In the case of turntables they are there to adjust speed. Turntables with this sort of adjustment usually have a strobe light and indicators on the platter to help confirm that you are rotating at the correct 33 or 45 (or 78) RPM. If the platter does not have the markings you use a strobe disc but more on this later. <div><br></div><div>For the purposes of this post I am using a basic Sanyo TP-1010 belt drive turntable. It's a belt drive semi automatic model with pitch controls for both speeds. It has fine tuning controls visible externally and other controls inside. It's pretty typical or similar to many models from numerous brands. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>The external fine controls are adjusted by thumbwheels to the right. The internal or gross controls can also be accessed externally but they are under the platter and not visible until you remove the mat or platter. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>Anyway, the speed controls will get contaminated with dust or corrosion over the years and this will lead to them not working properly. The result is that the turntable will not run consistently at the correct speed. Cleaning them often solves this.</div><div><br></div><div>Typically I use a product called Electrosolve from MG Chemicals. Others might recommend Deoxit but I find it too expensive and not necessarily any better. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>When using this or similar products you give a brief fraction of a second shot into the control and then turn the knob or wheel through the entire range multiple times, like 20 or 30, to distribute the cleaner and effectively scrub the path of the variable resistor. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>Sometimes it's easy to see where to spray the cleaner and in this case it's pretty obvious. Other times, and especially on more modern equipment, it's less clear as the parts are better sealed. Essentially you need to look for openings or gaps in the housing of the variable resistors. Look at where the red tube is directed. </div><div><br></div><div>The devices shown above are the fine tuning ones. The gross controls are on a different printed circuit board. They don't need cleaning as often as the others but sometimes they need it too. They must be adjusted with a small screwdriver 🪛 and it's best to take note of where they are pointed and return them to the same spot or as close as possible. Take a picture to help with this. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div>The gross adjusters are helpful if you can't get the fine variable resistors to stabilize the speed at or very close to the center of their range. Having them accessible from the top is really handy for this. Otherwise you often have to get creative with some way to support the turntable high enough to get the screwdriver underneath. Blocks of wood, bricks or large soup cans are things I see people using. I found an old magazine rack that works well for this. I don't need it for this job but I will try to get a picture of it later to add to this to give you ideas. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>If you find that you can't get the top mounted fine adjustment VRs (variable resistors) to bring the strobe dots to a stop at the center of their range, try the gross ones. It might only take a tiny nudge with the screwdriver to bring the strobe to a stop but first move the fine adjustment to the middle of its range.</div><div><br></div><div>In this turntable there are 4 VRs, but some only have a single fine VR and 2 gross ones. In some there might be no external control at all. And then of course there are turntables that have none. Speed adjustments on those might still be possible but that's another topic. </div><div><br></div><div>Edit: it's been brought to my attention that I should mention cleaning the switch(es). So here we go. </div><div><br></div><div>There are 2 switches in this one. One stops or starts the motor and the other handles the 33 to 45 speed change. In many belt drives the speed change is purely mechanical, as in a lever of sorts moves the belt from one part of the motor pulley to another of different diameter. Not the case here. </div><div><br></div><div>The speed switch is in the lower left and the motor switch is the red and black thing further up the picture. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>Aim your spray as shown and again manipulate the switch a couple of dozen times. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>While you at it, it's a good time to get some oil into the motor and the spindle. In this case I'm using Triflow. There are other choices but lighter is better than thick stuff in my opinion. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>Don't get oil on the pulley itself or at least clean it afterwards. </div><div><br></div><div>I also mentioned that stand that I sometimes use, though in this case it wasn't needed. It's actually a wooden magazine rack I found that had a canvas sling. Without the cloth in the way it's very handy for holding the turntable up high enough to get easy access. A mirror underneath can help too. Look around and you might find other ideas. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-8506319498612001462015-07-12T01:58:00.001-07:002015-07-12T02:18:26.938-07:00Dual 1229Q rewire and overhaul<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I was contacted about a month by a guy who was referred to me through someone he met associated with a local award-winning craft brewery. Apparently I worked on a turntable now in the possession of brewery guy and he was happy with the work. I'm curious as to who that was. Beer connections are always good.<br>
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Anyway, we agreed that I would work on his Dual 1229Q. I've worked on a few before but they were simple jobs and this new guy wanted to really treat it right and was not afraid to spend some money to do so. The 1229Q is worth the effort as well as it is arguably one of their best idler drive tables. It shares top billing with the 1219, 1229 and 1019 (my personal favourite).<br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/14800267316/in/photolist-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R-k5N4p2-k5QvLf-hYZXgg-hZ15tx-hpVgQi-hpU3YS-hpU1MC-hpTT5n-hpUvio-hpUqYJ-hpUGBW-hpUw55-hpUNCy-hpUTP5-ho1S1L-gU7ayR-gU785n-gU6Y3d-gU6ZSY-gU6Z54-gU6VXd-gcoXaA-gcpmqa-fXdcM7-fXd1a8-fKLkff-fKtLhx-fKLmay-fKtMdc-fct2R1" title="Dual 1229Q 4"><img alt="Dual 1229Q 4" height="421" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5574/14800267316_d060a69aea_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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The issues were the usual stiff mechanism, erratic tonearm movement, signal loss and so on. The owner brought it over after ordering a few things from an eBay vendor. Those items were a pair of aftermarket steuerpimpels (one for me), the Alvania grease that Dual asks for in the service manual, and the lifter ring for the single/multi play lever. He also received a 62 page pdf file of a custom service document.<br>
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The steuerpimpels are nicely made. Probably better than the ones I make from insulation but mine seem to work well too. I actually just acquired some silicon tubing that I am going to test in that application too. The lifter ring looks good, and the grease might be better than what I have used though I can't be sure. He wanted to be as original as possible.<br>
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Original didn't quite pan out, but more on that later.<br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19338419065/in/dateposted-public/" title="turntable work table"><img alt="turntable work table" height="491" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/382/19338419065_ec8e852ed7_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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I spent a good amount of time going through the mechanism to remove old grease and re-lube as needed. The speed selector is a common stiff area. The original lifter ring was actually quite soft and supple so I am not sure it needed replacing but I did it anyway.<br>
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I won't provide pictures and description of all the areas I worked on as they are well documented elsewhere, but I will mention one. Oddly enough, even in the large file I was sent I see nothing about it but I have encountered this on several Dual turntables.<br>
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That area is the last pivot point before the idler wheel. It normally is out of sight under the rubber idler which slides onto the shaft to the lower right of the arrow. With the idler removed (easy to do but don't lose the plastic retaining washer) you can see the problem area at the head of the red arrow. That is a metal on metal pivot point and it frequently is very stiff or even immovable due to dried up lubricant. If it doesn't move freely the idler will not make good contact with the motor capstan and/or platter. Result? Slow or no platter movement. <br>
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The solution is to remove the e-clip and force the arm out from the bottom, clean thoroughly, lube and reassemble. I have found some so stiff that they were very hard to get off. Applying heat helps, such as a heat gun or even a hair dryer on high, as this will soften the old grease.<br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/18777665864/in/photolist-uBjrRJ-vbhEm3-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R-k5N4p2-k5QvLf-hYZXgg-hZ15tx" title="Dual 1229Q idler arm"><img alt="Dual 1229Q idler arm" height="426" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/312/18777665864_dbbe66566a_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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After working out most mechanical bugs relatively easily and predictably, but also spending hours on trying to get a consistent signal, I had to make a phone call to the owner.<br>
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The Dual cartridge holder is a great thing in some ways as it allows for easy cartridge changes. However it is prone to corrosion and other issues that impede the signal path. I cleaned extensively used my meter a lot, removed and reinstalled, tried different cartridges, touched up solder joints and on and on, but I still I could not get a consistent signal on one channel. When I did get one it would usually go away after the needle was on the record for a minute or 2.<br>
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This lead me to the conclusion that a wire was broken somewhere in the tonearm. I reflowed solder joints at the little printed circuit board in the end of the arm and that did not help either. We agreed that re-wiring the arm was probably best. The pics below show the PCB in the arm which was soon to be no more.<br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19150762018/in/photolist-vbhEm3-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R-k5N4p2-k5QvLf-hYZXgg-hZ15tx-hpVgQi" title="Dual pcb"><img alt="Dual pcb" height="508" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/539/19150762018_147d0e6074_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19150787718/in/photolist-vbhMZ9-uBjrRJ-vbhEm3-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R-k5N4p2-k5QvLf-hYZXgg" title="Dual pcb 2"><img alt="Dual pcb 2" height="609" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/438/19150787718_4da87d1c45_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19150781268/in/photolist-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R-k5N4p2-k5QvLf-hYZXgg-hZ15tx-hpVgQi-hpU3YS" title="Dual PCB back"><img alt="Dual PCB back" height="366" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/419/19150781268_9a8021c29f_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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This part of the job was an outright pain in the ass. I have rewired tonearms before but it's never really much fun. The wires I had already on hand, Litz wire from ISOkinetik.<br>
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I won't describe the process completely but I threaded the new wires through after soldering them in a bunch to one of the old wires and pulled them through that way. Getting them to go through the various bends was a bit tricky but eventually it worked out.<br>
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The end result was a complete bypass of the contacts in the Dual sled. The tonearm wires now push directly onto the cartridge pins and travel uninterrupted to the circuit board at the muting switch under the turntable. I removed the pins and leads in the sled and the PCB in the arm. It's not as convenient to change a cartridge now, but it works...and works well!<br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19342396681/in/photolist-vynm5Z-vgJ68u-vtdQDX" title="Litz wires"><img alt="Litz wires" height="583" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/492/19342396681_c5bf13005f_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/18715933114/in/photolist-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R-k5N4p2-k5QvLf-hYZXgg-hZ15tx-hpVgQi-hpU3YS-hpU1MC-hpTT5n-hpUvio" title="Dual 1229Q rewired"><img alt="Dual 1229Q rewired" height="426" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/314/18715933114_cd85313a64_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19152330859/in/photolist-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R-k5N4p2-k5QvLf-hYZXgg-hZ15tx-hpVgQi-hpU3YS-hpU1MC-hpTT5n" title="Dual new wiring"><img alt="Dual new wiring" height="434" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3867/19152330859_dba76df7a5_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19400639065/in/photolist-vynm5Z-vgJ68u-vbhMZ9-uBjrRJ-vbhEm3-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R-k5N4p2" title="Dual 1229Q litz wiring 2"><img alt="Dual 1229Q litz wiring 2" height="289" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/544/19400639065_e1c6391b49_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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I wasn't done yet. After dealing with all of this, I told the owner that he could pick up his machine. However I was test driving the table for a few hours (I almost always do this before returning a repair to a client) and was starting to hear annoying chirping sounds. I realized this was coming from the motor, so decided to throw in a motor overhaul.<br>
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I've done a full disassembly and relube of some Dual motors in the past but not of this series, so I told the owner this would be "on the house" as I would put it down to practice. After all I have a 1219 of my own to do soon...<br>
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It is actually pretty easy and again well documented elsewhere, so I won't shows all the details here. Here's the motor removed from the chassis.<br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19301203938/in/photolist-vpzHuf-uK9wfA-vynm5Z-vgJ68u-vbhMZ9-uBjrRJ-vbhEm3-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb" title="Dual 1229 motor"><img alt="Dual 1229 motor" height="476" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/404/19301203938_fc3b6fbd38_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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I took the next picture to help me get the capstan at about the right height when I put it back together. I still had to move it a couple of times to get it right.<br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19302654239/in/photolist-vpH9Br-vpzHuf-uK9wfA-vynm5Z-vgJ68u-vbhMZ9-uBjrRJ-vbhEm3-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb" title="Dual 1229 motor capstan"><img alt="Dual 1229 motor capstan" height="443" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/278/19302654239_6c36f7c41c_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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The motor in pieces. The hardest part was prying the 2 halves of the clamshell housing apart. It will be easier next time as I have a tool in mind.<br>
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The areas that needs oil at this point are the center brassy coloured bushings in the 2 halves of the housing. I used several drops of 10W40 non synthetic oil from the auto supply store 2 blocks away. I'll keep a small bottle and put the rest in my car. <br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/19493141061/in/photolist-vGxrGZ-vpH9Br-vpzHuf-uK9wfA-vynm5Z-vgJ68u-vbhMZ9-uBjrRJ-vbhEm3-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9" title="Dual 1229 motor disassembled"><img alt="Dual 1229 motor disassembled" height="338" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/429/19493141061_244aa803bc_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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Here's the inside of the box that contains the wiring harness. It's always a good idea to take pictures of these places to help putting them back together properly later.<br>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" data-header="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/18866261494/in/photolist-uK9wfA-vynm5Z-vgJ68u-vbhMZ9-uBjrRJ-vbhEm3-vbhL4W-vbhJaf-vbqGH2-uvS3RY-vmHVyp-upHsWq-upHxyw-v59sSd-ukKrcs-q9iFF3-q9iEQ5-r6ajhV-r17bde-qHHbUW-qXYxjA-qHH9mE-qXBXbf-qHugw4-qZL7un-proZFV-oioZm8-ozF1bU-oioBRf-oiok2L-oxReQG-owWMbw-owWckW-ofDxS1-oc1BF6-obYvCC-ott4qv-otrvw9-ott93X-otrwx7-nP7eiQ-o6tMoE-nRPNYL-nzrFG7-nzswGk-nzsyz8-n9V3B9-jaceWb-nmTryb-nqGx7R" title="Dual 1229 wiring harness"><img alt="Dual 1229 wiring harness" height="501" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/336/18866261494_6d18145537_z.jpg" width="640"></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br>
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I didn't take a picture of the insides of the box beside it. That contains the spark suppressing capacitor. As it tuned out, after doing everything else, there was a 'pop' still as the turntable motor started and stopped. I did not remove the existing capacitor but bridged it with a new one similar value, a .10mfd at 630 volts (the original is 700 volts) and the noise went away.<br>
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Phew! I think I am done...<br>
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And the owner has his turntable back. My hourly rate on this one was terrible, especially after considering parts and trips to the electronics store but it was another learning experience. If I have to do one like this again, it will go more smoothly I hope!<br>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com6Mt Pleasant, Vancouver49.258266 -123.10818tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-60806008416252727232015-04-14T00:30:00.000-07:002015-04-14T21:57:13.120-07:00More turntables than I can shake a stick at <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Along with the Space Lab stuff, where I might fix several turntables or other pieces of gear in one day, I've had a few around the home front too.<br />
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This Pioneer PL-A35 for example, went from this: <br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="333" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/15631261123/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
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to this. <br />
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It will soon be on the market. <br />
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I also tuned up a Pioneer PL-4 and it works great now. <br />
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<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/16610032967/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="333" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe><br />
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And I also have the Sansui 2050C ready for market. I love the power light and the lid prop stick thing on this. Very 1960s or something. <br />
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This Sony PS-X40 is no slouch. It's got a great arm and nice features with automatic functions and servo controlled direct drive. Too bad about the Handsworth School name etched into the plinth. Just maybe I will modify that silverware cabinet to take this as the controls are all on top and the etching on the front will be invisible inside the cabinet.<br />
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I've worked on others but they are kind of ho-hum compared to the next one, which is currently the one I am using at home. Here's a beautiful Denon DP-3000 with an AudioCraft AC-300 tonearm. In the first pic you see it with the headshell and Grado cartridge I go it with but I am now using my Denon DL-103R moving coil on it in a Jeweltone headshell. It's a nice match. <br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-86724367617546098772015-04-14T00:04:00.001-07:002015-04-14T00:51:39.866-07:00Good grief!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">So, I was given a bit of grief today (nicely) by a co-worker who has followed my blog a bit. "When are you going to post something new?" Yes I've been bad...<br />
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I have been busy though. I've actually not worked on as many projects for myself as I have for <a href="https://www.facebook.com/I.Love.Spacelab" target="_blank">Space Lab</a>. I have a shop space there and work on vintage gear for the store and some of my own stuff too. One day I will show some pictures of the workshop, but probably not until we get it cleaned up a bit as we have had some "issues", like a flood from a damaged sprinkler for example.<br />
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Right now I'll give a small taste of some of the things I've done in the last several months and some of the projects ahead. Here's one, a silverware chest turned into a stereo stand. It's still somewhat unfinished but fully functional as is.<br />
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The "before" pic.<br />
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The "after" pics<br />
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And the "in between" pics. <br />
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I had to modify the drawer so the wiring could drop behind it through the slot I cut in the new plywood bottom. The B&O turntable works nicely because it is such a low profile but I might lower the shelf so I can use something deeper, though will require another re-work to the drawer. I'm also thinking I could add a holder to the lid for the "now playing" selection, and a bit of trim and finishing work. <br />
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I think it looks pretty cool. But we don't have anyplace for the fancy silverware now!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-70593589002284603512015-01-13T00:12:00.000-08:002015-01-13T00:12:17.391-08:00Yes, I'm still here. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I've been remiss in posting my successes (and failures) on this blog, so I'll try to rectify that soon. I've actually had lots of projects. In fact there have been so many that I have not found the time to talk about them. That's my excuse at least. <br />
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For the time being, I'll just mention that I have added a new link to the right for the <a href="http://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/" target="_blank">Voice Of Music</a> site. I use a few different sources for parts and advice and Gary at VOM is one of the nicer ones. His specialties tend toward idler drive turntables and changers but he can be a handy source for belts and needles and other parts for vintage gear and at affordable rates.<br />
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So, there's my plug for today. I'll be back with more soon. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-27085802789001478912014-04-01T21:40:00.001-07:002019-02-05T18:51:07.959-08:00Advent 300 Refurbish Part Deux<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://afishneedsastereo.blogspot.com/search?q=advent+300" target="_blank">Continued from...</a><br />
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So I have been away from this a while but the Advent moved into another phase and is now working better and looking <b>way</b> better.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12583486574" title="Advent 300 Hammertone by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 300 Hammertone" height="319" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7393/12583486574_f2e7197492_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Internally I have replaced most of the electrolytic capacitors though I still have a few to get to. The large power supply ones were the first and as the leads on them were radial (short and on one end) rather than axial (one long one out each end) I had to get a bit creative for mounting. I'll get a pic of that later.<br />
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The paint job is the obvious difference. These Advents look very industrial or utilitarian, almost military. The cabinets remind me of the Hammond project boxes my dad used to use on his home made stuff. This needed a repaint so why go with black? The face plate was generally pretty good and with all the text on it I am really glad it was as that would be hard to redo.<br />
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I used a grey hammertone paint which gives that industrial slightly pebbled or textured finish. It also is good at hiding minor imperfections, and since I am an impatient painter it works well for me. I stripped the black off mostly with paint stripper, sanded and primed before 2 coats of paint.<br />
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Recently I picked up a set of Realistic Minimus 77 speakers in white. These have aluminum cases and are bigger cousins of the Minimus 7 of which I have a few sets. They also needed new woofer foams which I have since done.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12357327515" title="Minimus 77 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Minimus 77" height="426" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/12357327515_27b15d61f8_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Here's how things turned out.<br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12737478124" title="Minimus 77 finish by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Minimus 77 finish" height="1024" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2863/12737478124_58a8ba6ecf_b.jpg" width="732" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12737177723" title="Minimus 77 & Advent 300 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Minimus 77 & Advent 300" height="485" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7419/12737177723_345ff286de_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12737191773" title="Advent Minimus & Toucan by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent Minimus & Toucan" height="424" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/12737191773_45be9d9583_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-3063260823929674352014-01-30T00:31:00.000-08:002019-02-05T18:49:51.093-08:00ADVENT 300 Receiver Rebuild - Part 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I've had this ADVENT 300 receiver hanging around for quite awhile and it's time to get busy on this project. It's not hard to tell it needs a little work.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12217798804/" title="Advent 300 receiver by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 300 receiver" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5525/12217798804_26675e60f4_z.jpg" height="273" width="640" /></a><br />
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I plan to improve on the cosmetic issues as you can imagine, but also plan to replace other parts to update this classic receiver that came out the year I graduated from high school. Back then I had a tube receiver that I scavenged from a Viking stereo console that an elderly neighbour was tossing out. She had had a tube TV catch fire and didn't trust them (tubes) any more so was going all solid state. She was still sticking with Viking, the Eatons house brand name though. Little did she know that almost 40 years later people still want those tube gadgets. But I digress...<br />
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The Advent 300 is still considered to be a great performer and even with its low power of 15 watts per side and kind of chintzy build quality it can rival much nicer newer amps. It's an FM tuner only (even back then AM sucked), and pre and power amp in one case, with jumpers between the pre and power sections so you can use it with other components or add an equalizer if you like.<br />
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This one has some stickers and scratches that have taken off the paint, rust damage, and just old parts. The voltage regulator has already been replaced but as far as I know it has had little servicing since new.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12217581303/" title="Advent 300 case 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 300 case 2" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/12217581303_d56190c823_z.jpg" height="268" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12217985516/" title="Advent 300 case by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 300 case" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2821/12217985516_b60dcfc068_z.jpg" height="416" width="640" /></a><br />
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The old electrolytic capacitors are all going to be replaced in this project. I will also be trying to clean up or replace some of the fittings, for example the grounding screw and AC jack on the back are respectively rusted and cracked.<br />
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I'm going to clean extensively and might "reflow" solder joints. Essentially that means melting the existing solder to ensure that the contact is good. I will replace some of the jumper wires I think too, and clean up the routing in the process. Maybe I will anyway; I will certainly have a look at them and replace if questionable.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12217981166/" title="Advent 300 inside top by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 300 inside top" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5540/12217981166_f13d3b5dd0_z.jpg" height="391" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12217376595/" title="Advent 300 PCB by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 300 PCB" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3684/12217376595_23a9d0649a_z.jpg" height="396" width="640" /></a><br />
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In the pic above and the one below you can see some of the rust on the case near the power supply and on the RCA connectors. I've actually removed a lot of the corrosion on the RCAs to the left already with a 3M pad and sand paper. The ones to the right are essentially untouched.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12217770084/" title="Advent 300 RCA jacks by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 300 RCA jacks" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7436/12217770084_96a88bf45e_z.jpg" height="320" width="640" /></a><br />
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Here you can see the power supply. My first actual real "upgrade" is to replace the 2 large capacitors you see to the left. The stock components are 3000uf at 30volts but I will be using 4700uf at 50volts which is totally acceptable as a component value change for this area.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/12217763384/" title="Advent 300 power supply by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 300 power supply" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7423/12217763384_be5e4a2ebb_z.jpg" height="320" width="640" /></a><br />
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In addition to other resources, I am using the excellent website by David Eaton devoted to the Advent 300 as a reference. Thanks David!<br />
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http://www.davidreaton.com/Model_300_receiver_main_page.htm<br />
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I'll be back soon with <a href="http://afishneedsastereo.blogspot.com/2014/04/advent-300-refurbish-part-deux.html" target="_blank">Part II..</a>.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-56114495595903914962014-01-15T00:39:00.001-08:002014-01-15T01:19:18.542-08:00Ol' Shakey on the Swirly Table<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="font-size: 0.8em; line-height: 1.6em; margin: 0 0 10px 0; padding: 0;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/11943365373/" title="Neil Young"><img alt="Neil Young by Buhduh" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3816/11943365373_7c5ae88aa5.jpg" /></a><br />
<span style="margin: 0;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/11943365373/">Neil Young</a>, a photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/">Buhduh</a> on Flickr.</span></div>I treated myself to one of my current favourite records on my current favourite turntable. <br />
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Neil Young, live at Massey Hall 1971 is an amazing record in my opinion. A man with a guitar, and sometimes a piano, in a hall with great acoustics and a reel to reel tape deck propped up on an office chair...what could be cooler than that?<br />
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Apparently this recording was "lost in the vaults" for 30 or more years before Neil decided to listen to it and eventually release it in 2007. Neil is a stickler for, and proponent of, high quality recordings including digital media formats. He didn't give this recording much thought but when he listened to it after many years he realized it was good and deserved releasing.<br />
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Deserved indeed. It's really good. Really really good. And I only discovered it a couple of months ago myself. Go buy it. If you can't get the vinyl, buy the CD or the DVD. Or get them all.<br />
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It sounds great on my newest turntable project and is a good showcase for any system. This "swirly table" as I have been calling it is a Technics Sl-1200 MKII that was in usable but battle scarred condition when I got it, but not anymore.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9333224830/" title="Technics 1200 MK2 3 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Technics 1200 MK2 3" height="426" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5341/9333224830_8e9d7d5298_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I can't stand the mess that DJ tables become. It's not just DJ tables but a lot of other too that people abuse. So I fix them up.<br />
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This one had already had the RCA cables replaced and obviously whoever did that had some idea what they were doing so I saw no reason to mess with that. I dealt with the cosmetic and other issues.<br />
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I took it apart and went to my friends shop with it with the intent of bead-blasting all the paint off but it turned out that the blaster was not working well. I got some paint off with it, but now I was kind of stuck, so I grabbed the angle grinder and a sanding disc and took the rest of the paint off. When I got it home a did a bit more controlled work with my Dremel and a sanding disc. I like the random swirly effect of this. I then gave it a few coats of a satin finish clear coat spray paint. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10281636203/" title="Technics SL-1200 Raw by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Technics SL-1200 Raw" height="444" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2818/10281636203_0c72d80138_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10281519326/" title="Technics Sl-1200 raw 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Technics Sl-1200 raw 2" height="480" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2813/10281519326_d318735d08_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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A few parts also needed replacing so I ordered them and I put it aside. It took a few months before I decided to get back at it and just the other day I put it back together. I had to get a trim piece for the pop-up target light, a new slider trim plate and ordered a lid and hinges. I also decided to order an LED kit but decided to just replace the pop-up light which was burnt out anyway and the pitch LED. The stock one is green but the new one is white. It's a bit too bright IMO so I will try to do something about that. <br />
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Anyway, here's the mostly finished product. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/11925744035/" title="swirly Technics 1200 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="swirly Technics 1200" height="371" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2834/11925744035_1885e3c007_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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And the darn near completely finished item. It has the new parts mentioned above, a couple of new feet, and the heaviest thickest Technics mat. I even took an aluminum 45 RPM adaptor and "swirled" it with my Dremel. I still am going to tweak a few things but I really like how it has turned out. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/11943080785/" title="swirly Technics 1200 4 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="swirly Technics 1200 4" height="423" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3740/11943080785_159bd7b7db_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-85599605508006351452013-11-09T23:16:00.001-08:002013-11-09T23:20:45.956-08:00From 66 & 2/3 to 33 & 1/3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I have not posted in awhile but thought I should start it up again. This one is about another Dual turntable problem and a solution for it. Hmm, that kind of makes it sound like Dual turntables have a lot of problems. That's sort of true, but they had a lot more turntables than most. More models and more in quantity sold too. Have a look at this page if you don't believe me:<br />
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<a href="http://www.dual-reference.com/tableinx.htm">http://www.dual-reference.com/tableinx.htm</a><br />
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So, the problem fix for the evening involved a Dual 510. The motor on the original version of the 510, and a few other models as well such as the 601 and 1249, had a tendency to run at twice the standard speed occasionally. This apparently did not happen on the Duals at home in Germany where the electricity from the wall is 240 volts at 50 HZ, but here in North America at 120 volts & 60 HZ it sometimes occurred. The motor in question was the SM-840. Later versions included the SM-840-2 and -4 and they had found a fix by then.<br />
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The motor runs at the right speed about 80% of the time and simply turning it off and back on usually makes it run at the correct speed. This is the second of these turntables I have had this issue with, and while you could live with it, I would rather make it go away.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772307814/" title="Dual 510 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual 510" height="384" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7369/10772307814_a2aa7a6f27_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The later motor model SM-860 also fixed the problem, and a kind person on Audio Karma sent me one very inexpensively.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772234676/" title="Dual SM-860 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual SM-860" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7419/10772234676_00be0f8e1a_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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With the turntable flipped over (yeah I know, the picture could be flipped too) here is the original motor. I took out the 2 large screws and 1 small one on the motor, and removed the cover for the electrical connections.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772290384/" title="Dual SM-840 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual SM-840" height="495" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5535/10772290384_3cc9f3692c_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Swapping the entire motor is not required. You really only need to change the motor winding part which is off to the right in this pic. The entire motor can be taken out but there are several more screws and the pitch control belt to mess with if you do that. This is easier...sort of.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772217546/" title="Dual 510 inside by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual 510 inside" height="488" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2829/10772217546_5de086a427_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I often take close-ups of the wiring or other important details so I can make sure they go back the same way.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772270164/" title="Dual 510 wiring by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual 510 wiring" height="586" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/10772270164_0c7c973f61_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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This is a good time to oil the motor bearings. Note the scarring on the armature. I'm not sure how that came about.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772260174/" title="Oiling bearings by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Oiling bearings" height="531" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/10772260174_2daa26fa57_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Top bearing with some fresh oil.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772417263/" title="Top bearing by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Top bearing" height="416" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2855/10772417263_e81818c03e_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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And going back together.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772241184/" title="Putting it together by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Putting it together" height="494" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3794/10772241184_d80a459767_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Fully reassembled, but I still had some fiddling to do. I found that there was a lot of stiffness in the motor and it barely turned under hand pressure and not at all with power applied. I played around with the tightness of the 2 bolts that hold the bearing mount and that did not help right away.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772232084/" title="Dual back together by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual back together" height="473" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5508/10772232084_2879546718_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I swapped the armature from the 860 in place of the 840, thinking that maybe the scoring you see was a factor. The brass capstan was not at the same height though and I have trouble with those little screws before so changed it back to the original (on the right). This time when I put it back together it worked smoothly. It could have just been the orientation of the top and bottom bearings which are in kind of ball and socket joints.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772110225/" title="Dual armatures by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual armatures" height="480" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3672/10772110225_f144db22d2_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
Anyway, it all worked out! I cleaned the entire table up further, oiled the platter well, gave the lid a quick polish and here you go! Starting and stopping a bunch of times and the speed is just as it should be every time.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772381893/" title="Dual 510 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual 510 2" height="389" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3737/10772381893_acc7bbfcf2_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
In this pic you can also see the cuing lever I made from a bicycle spoke and spoke nipple. That lever was missing as well and this stuff was handy.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772143546/" title="Dual 510 3 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual 510 3" height="451" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/10772143546_915e78646a_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
It still has a few cosmetic issues but it looks good and works well.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10772136166/" title="Dual 510 4 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual 510 4" height="348" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7322/10772136166_3338c80a22_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-30817367417981629492013-07-16T22:45:00.000-07:002013-10-12T23:30:41.444-07:00Advent 400 Radio <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I had another mini success story today. Someone on Audio Karma was asking for tips on how to repair his Advent 400 radio recently and it tweaked me into working on one of my own procrastination projects.<br />
<br />
<i>Aside: I would like to make "project" and "procrastination" into one word. Projectination? Procrastiject? I'm not sure either quite has the ring I want...</i><br />
<i><br />
</i> Anyway, the Advent 400 is a neat, high quality table radio with external speaker from c. 1975. The FM only tuner is supposed to be of very good quality and the fairly substantial (for a radio) speaker is quite decent. The tuner does appear to be quite sensitive. It has an auxiliary input and a tuner out so you can run a CD player or other device through it or send the radio signal to a larger amplifier.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9303489673/" title="Advent 400 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 400" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/9303489673_798a92385d.jpg" height="229" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The fellow on AK described a similar problem to mine, and that is very low, almost non-existent volume. I have had this radio for a year or 2 and even bought a batch of capacitors with this radio in mind, among other projects. Someone else chimed in on the thread there with specific capacitors to try first so I decided to go for it after work today.<br />
<br />
As usual, I forgot to get pictures while I had the patient under the knife, but the operation was a success! I am listening to CBC Radio 2 right now and it comes in well with no antenna attached. The volume is all I could want from a table radio and the bass and treble controls work well. Tuning is vernier style which allows for accurate fine tuning.<br />
<br />
I had a few minor glitches along the way. I ended up replacing 3 capacitors but at first only did 2, those being the ones closest to the volume control. Along the way I blew the fuse and had to solder a new one in. Also the caps I had were the right value but the wire leads were radial (both at one end) not axial (one out each end) so were a bit tricky to get into a tight spot. It all worked though and it is now working great!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9306275320/" title="Advent 400 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 400 2" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5453/9306275320_17bf3be864.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Too bad about that little scratch on the face...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9306278014/" title="Advent 400 1 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 400 1" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7380/9306278014_cbe770f83c.jpg" height="500" width="425" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Edit: I found the new home for the Advent 400 in the dining/kitchen area at our cabin. It works over there and looks good next to the Dansk Kobenstyle coffee maker and those sushi plates (or whatever they are)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/10239965916/" title="Advent 400 at the cabin by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Advent 400 at the cabin" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2858/10239965916_c4c09cdaeb_z.jpg" height="314" width="640" /></a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-33137473725371593462013-06-25T22:43:00.001-07:002015-02-28T18:01:43.871-08:00Holy Steuerpimpel! <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It seems to be raining turntables around the home front, especially Dual turntables. Actually it has rained Kenwoods and Technics as well but that's for later.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9138194857/" title="Dual 1242 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual 1242" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5470/9138194857_0f72f005c4_z.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
I brought home for repair 3 different Dual 12XX series tables lately and in the last 2 days have worked on all of them. The 1225 has already gone back to the owner but I still have the 1228 I brought home yesterday and the 1242 from today. Even the ones that I still have I made progress on though and they should be working well soon. <br />
<br />
Among other issues the 1242 above had a stylus that was nearly gone and the 1228 below had no stylus whatsoever. Both of them and the 1225 all had the most common Dual problems.<br />
<br />
The mechanism of the Dual changers has a lot of moving, pivoting, sliding, rotating parts. All of those have some need for lubrication either by oil or grease. That lubrication gets dried and caked and stops doing the job very well. Another area needs little to no lubrication and in fact relies on just a bit of friction to operate.<br />
<br />
That area controls the movement of the tonearm during the Start phase in automatic mode and the Return of the tonearm at the end of the record side. It relies on a steuerpimpel to do the job. <i>A what?</i> A <b>steuerpimpel</b>. It's a little plasticy bumper that sits on the clutch pin and slides against a platform taking the tonearm with it during the arm start and return action. When the needle is on the record it sits a bit away from the arm and the arms nearly friction free.<br />
<br />
This pin is where the steuerpimpel goes. <i>(Seinfeld to Costanza: "You just like saying that don't </i>you?")<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9140410234/" title="Dual clutch pin by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual clutch pin" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3773/9140410234_5e6a5d6f43_z.jpg" height="461" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
The steuerpimpel almost always fails after 30 years or so. The piece just disintegrates and breaks apart. When it does the arm won't move properly if at all. The part is also not that easy to find but also is easy to fabricate once you figure out what to use. I tried heatshrink tubing, small sections of the end of pen refills and other sizes of wire insulation but settled on 14 gauge insulation as it seem to provide good performance and fit. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9140414308/" title="Steuerpimpel in progress by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Steuerpimpel in progress" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3715/9140414308_1dff74849d_z.jpg" height="391" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
16 gauge might work but 14 goes on easily and when cut nicely to the right length seems to work well. The 1242 has a longer pin and seems to prefer about 6mm long but the other 2 are best with 4mm. The key is that it should be just a bit longer than the pin itself so that the metal does not stick out. The smaller piece shown is about 4mm and the longer is around 6mm. Below is the longer one once installed. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9141434646/" title="Dual clutch pin 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual clutch pin 2" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/9141434646_920e786d51_z.jpg" height="442" width="640" /></a> <br />
<br />
I love simple fixes. That's not to say that every Dual turntable problem has a simple fix, but this one is not bad once you work out a few details.<br />
<br />
Aside from that these turntables work amazing well after so long that I am starting to enjoy working them. I still have some other details to address on both the Duals sitting here but once again, another day...<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-32157587519320577862013-06-25T21:34:00.001-07:002013-06-25T21:34:24.239-07:00Who needs Linear when you have Zero 100?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
My latest favouritest turntable is this Garrard Zero 100. It is not quite my latest, and perhaps not my favourite but it's very close on both counts.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9004346352/" title="Garrard Zero 100 5 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Garrard Zero 100 5" height="444" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3751/9004346352_19d4dd1352_z.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
This was manufactured in the early 1970's. It addressed effectively the error that linear tracking tonearms also worked to resolve and that is that cartridges with elliptical styli (or any shape other than conical) would not always be at an ideal angle to the record groove.<br />
<br />
Records are cut or mastered by arms that move at a tangent to the groove. Most tonearms move through an arc and present a different surface to the groove that can cause a different "interpretation" of the music trapped in the vinyl. Through careful alignment one can minimize this variance but it can't completely be eliminated with the conventional tonearm.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9141158122/" title="Garrard Zero 100 ad by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Garrard Zero 100 ad" height="640" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5350/9141158122_4c36487fe2_z.jpg" width="477" /></a></div>
<br />
Above is an ad from an audio magazine dated August 1973 that describes how the Garrard Zero 100 addresses the problem. It does it very well and with a great deal of style.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9003164165/" title="Garrard Zero 100 6 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Garrard Zero 100 6" height="426" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5442/9003164165_af40f08880_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/9001547165/" title="Garrard Zero 100 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Garrard Zero 100" height="396" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/9001547165_6d61e13993_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
The Zero 100 is another idler drive, much like many Dual turntables. It's also automatic and comes with a single play spindle and a changer spindle. The extra spindle and 45 adapter are stored in a little box under a wooden cover, reminding me of a cigar humidor.<br />
<br />
The performance is great, though I have some small issues to work out. The manual switch does not always want to stay engaged for example. Also the lid is a bit funky and someone tried an even funkier repair on it. The lid is in 2 parts and the tabs that hold the smaller piece to the base had broken off and whomever had drilled through it in the wood base. I've got a plan to fix that but more on it later.<br />
<br />
For the time being I really enjoy the look and it does not sound half bad either!<br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-21354175526228450092013-05-18T23:51:00.002-07:002013-05-21T22:57:32.889-07:00My First Record Meet and Her First Record!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8751336307/" title="First Record by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="First Record" height="480" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2887/8751336307_e57cb07161_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><br />
<br />
Today I had a table at the <a href="http://www.vinylrecordfair.com/" target="_blank">Main Street Vinyl Record Fair</a> here in Vancouver. This is the first time I have attended a record swap meet as a vendor though I have been to a bunch as a buyer. This event is a 2 day one this year and continues on Sunday. I won't be there tomorrow...unless I go back to shop!<br />
<br />
I had fun and made a bit of money. However I wasn't there as much to sell records as most people. As I said in my last post, I was also selling turntables. I also advertised my services in repairing and providing advice on stereo systems. I gave out a lot of cards for AFishNeedsAStereo. :)<br />
<br />
I did have a few boxes of records though and managed to whittle that down by about half. Someone I know thought they were doing me a favour the other day by giving me a box of records to take along. Being mostly kids music, James Last, Hooked On Classics and so on, that actually became a "FREE!" box. Thankfully almost all of that disappeared so I don't have many to drop off at the thrift store. I did hold onto a couple of Bill Cosby records from it though. Oh yeah, I also kept a Breakdance instruction record. I can't wait to start headspinning.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7mhmQmXv_Ac/UZh0gv7gadI/AAAAAAAAD_s/zhAcsCadcNE/s1600/breakdance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7mhmQmXv_Ac/UZh0gv7gadI/AAAAAAAAD_s/zhAcsCadcNE/s320/breakdance.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had some good conversations with people, met some old friends, met some new ones and made some money. Giving away records was fun too. One old gent with a cane was chatting with me for a while though I could barely make out what he was saying as he had a soft voice and the speakers were too close. However the 86 year old did say he like spoken word records, so I dug out a Dylan Thomas album that I had priced at $2 or $3 and just gave it to him. It was probably the only record he acquired that day, even though he must have paid the $2 entry fee. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And the little darling at the top also received a free record (from the free box). I am sure it is her first and though she had no idea what it was, she had a good grip on it and was hopefully going to hear it when mommy took her home. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-17474306711180903612013-04-16T00:43:00.002-07:002013-04-16T00:43:10.684-07:00Vinyl Swap Meet Coming Up!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I am really going to join the ranks of the record geeks now that I have booked myself into a <a href="http://www.vinylrecordfair.com/" target="_blank">vinyl sale for next month</a>. I am not sure how many records I personally will have for sale, but do expect to have a few boxes put aside by then and should have enough to fill at least half my table.<br />
<br />
The other half will have a small stack of turntables. According to the organizer I will be the only one who plans to have any hardware for sale. I will be there on Saturday May 18th, but the show continues on Sunday the 19th.<br />
<br />
I will post a few tidbits of what I will have to offer on the vinyl side later, but here is a sample or teaser of what <i>might </i>come up turntable-wise, tuned up and ready to plug'n'play:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8547649410/" title="Nice Pioneer by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Nice Pioneer" height="376" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8547649410_f3cd1809ff_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/6947799815/" title="Harman Kardon ST-7 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Harman Kardon ST-7" height="434" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6947799815_8592a490aa_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/7276534696/" title="Audio Reflex MR-114 3 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Audio Reflex MR-114 3" height="409" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7072/7276534696_9cb5347f60_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/6774879405/" title="Kenwood KD-2055 Headshell by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Kenwood KD-2055 Headshell" height="468" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6774879405_1094d8172a_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8316459965/" title="Dual 510 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Dual 510" height="465" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8211/8316459965_b5a269347d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
Here's the blurb from the Main Street Vinyl Fair website:<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; line-height: 17px;">
Next Vinyl Record Fair...</h3>
<strong style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Dates : </strong><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Saturday, May 18th & Sunday, May 19th</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">MAY LONG WEEKEND 2013</span><br />
<strong style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Time : </strong><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">11 am – 4 pm</span><br />
<strong style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Place : </strong><a href="http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=215+East+17th+Ave,+Vancouver,+BC&hl=en&ll=49.252589,-123.10075&spn=0.000937,0.00327&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=30.396419,107.138672&hnear=215+E+17+Ave,+Vancouver,+British+Columbia+V5V+1A6&t=m&z=19" style="background-color: white; color: #003399; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">The Cambrian Hall<br />
215 East 17th Ave, Vancouver, BC</a><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"></span><strong style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Entry : </strong><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">$2 at the door</span><br />
<div style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">
All Ages</div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">
Featuring great music by the Knights of the Turntable!</div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">
Over 40 Vendors Over Two Days!</div>
<div style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">
Only one table per vendor means only the best stuff at the best prices.</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.vinylrecordfair.com/">http://www.vinylrecordfair.com/</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-59685169423417929992013-03-28T00:36:00.002-07:002013-03-28T00:36:51.436-07:00Whacking Danish Moles<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8590893823/" title="B&O beauty by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="B&O beauty" height="439" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8590893823_99fd175fef_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
Bang & Olufsen. One of those companies you have to love and hate.<br />
<br />
They make beautiful audio equipment that is as much about lifestyle as it is about quality sound. The quality of construction is impeccable and the design aesthetic is outstanding. It might not be everyone's cup of tea but it does impress MOMA enough that they have 12 pieces in their collection designed by <a href="http://www.moma.org/collection/artist.php?artist_id=2909" target="_blank">Jakob Jensen</a>. I have owned one of them (the Beomaster 3000), and have recently been working on and listening to another, the Beogram 4002 turntable.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.moma.org/collection_images/resized/930/w500h420/CRI_211930.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://www.moma.org/collection_images/resized/930/w500h420/CRI_211930.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
However as great as it is, the stuff does have complications that go along with it. The engineering and design is very much proprietary. Many parts are not shared with other companies or even other B&O models and are not available any more without wide and long searches through ebay and the audio geek forums. For example turntables use cartridges that can't be sourced and must be re-tipped at great expense, or you take a chance at ebay.<br />
<br />
The good thing is that the Beogram 4002 I am listening to Santana on right now did come to me me with not one but 2 good original cartridges. In other areas it was not so great.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8480000017/" title="B&O 4002 1 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="B&O 4002 1" height="432" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8236/8480000017_c8c20914eb_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
Cosmetically the biggest problem was the paint wear on the switch plate. The different sections depress switches for start, stop, left, right, cueing and speed. They obviously don't have good paint in Denmark as they were very worn looking. Or the original owner had very acidic skin oils...<br />
Actually it seems to be a common problem with these. I did not want to spend time on issues like that however until I made sure it worked well.<br />
<br />
The table came to me with reports of the tonearm not dropping to the record when it was supposed to, or at best only doing it sporadically. A little internal investigation and web searching lead me to the relay and solenoid that operates the linkages which lower the arm. The solenoid and other moving parts have old lubricants on them that can get hardened or gummy over the years. After cleaning & oiling these, though not fully disassembling, I was able to get much more consistent tonearm dropping. I went down a few of the wrong paths first but once it did seem to be going in the right direction I went for the cosmetic treatment.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8580001331/" title="B&O 4002 switch plate by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="B&O 4002 switch plate" height="615" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8580001331_c1e5ea2ccc_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
It is a bit of a jigsaw puzzle, figuring out how to take this table apart but I worked it out. The switchplate is actually stainless steel glued on to machined aluminum parts. It did not take long to sand it down with fine wet sanding paper and a final pass with a 4000 grit pad. I clear coated it with 3 coat of satin Tremclad.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8580502853/" title="B&O switch plate painted 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="B&O switch plate painted 2" height="426" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8104/8580502853_ba8137272a_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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It looked great so I put everything back together after doing some other internal cleaning such as switch contact points. Oh yeah I also polished the lid with wet sanding and Novus polish.<br />
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There are numerous little dovetail and notchy kind of fittings that I had to reshape a bit or add some washers to in other places as some small plastic pieces had broken or gone missing. Once back together, it worked. Sort of...until up popped another mole to whack.<br />
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The motors now refused to shut off once the arm returned to it's standby position at the far right. the platter would spin and the motor that moves the tonearm was also spinning. It was even smelling a bit hot inside probably due to belt slipping. So it came apart again.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8590895675/" title="B&O linear track switches by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="B&O linear track switches" height="379" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8236/8590895675_df40737841_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8591996268/" title="B&O linear track off trigger by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="B&O linear track off trigger" height="426" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8517/8591996268_be5a6d84b9_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The first picture above highlights the 2 switches that control the motor and arm return points. I determined that the one on the right was not being activated when the tonearm came to rest, and by bending slightly the piece highlighted in the second image I was able to get that happening again. So it went back together...and the next mole popped back up.<br />
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This time the tonearm hesitated a bit at the beginning and end of the records before either getting to the music or heading to the leadout groove and shutting down. It would skip a few times before moving inward. After a bit of extra stylus pressure was added at the adjustment point (to just over 1 gram; these track very light) it seems fine again. I have now listened to several records and it is playing nearly flawlessly everytime. Very infrequently it seems to need an extra push of the up/down button to cue properly but that seems to be less frequent with more use. It could be that the lubricant is working its way into where it needs to be as things move it around.<br />
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In any case Glen Gould sounds pretty good right now!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8588880904/" title="B&O Beogram 4002 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="B&O Beogram 4002 2" height="471" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8588880904_2b41baecae_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8587779905/" title="B&O Beogram 4002 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="B&O Beogram 4002" height="344" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8109/8587779905_9cd2ea9d72_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-8912600385767864292013-03-19T00:04:00.000-07:002013-03-19T00:04:02.215-07:00Cleaning some records<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A lot of the records I buy are used and often from thrift stores like Value Village and the Salvation Army. Occasionally they come from yard sales or Craigslist. Often they are not very clean.<br />
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I really try to avoid badly scratched records, in fact I pretty much always avoid those. I can live with a few minor ones and will consider ones that are worse if it is a rare or unusual record and the price is right...like free.<br />
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Anyway, I can't stand damaged or dirty records and I have a few ways that I can deal with that. My day to day arsenal is below:<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8555837067/" title="Record paraphenalia by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Record paraphenalia" height="370" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8555837067_1a9c65b6ed_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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From left to right in order of how frequently I use it:<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Decca Carbon Fibre brush. I use this virtually every time I play a side, brushing it off each time. The one you see I have had for over 20 years and it still works well.</li>
<li>Magic Eraser. Say what? Yes Magic Eraser. It works well at removing accumulated lint etc. from the stylus. The piece you see here is inside a piece of titanium tubing I left over from my bike shop days. More on that later...</li>
<li>Discwasher brush with D4 fluid. I will use this on records that may be a bit dirtier in appearance but I don't think a bath is in order or I want to play it right away. </li>
<li>Discwasher Stylus brush and SC-2 fluid. This is more effective in some ways than the Magic Eraser but is bit less convenient. The other side of the brush is a convex mirror for inspecting the stylus but I never use it.</li>
</ul>
These are essentially the daily use things. I have a couple of carbon fibre brushes and a few Discwasher or similar brushes, plus another style or 2. I pick them up whenever I see them in thrift stores cheap.<br />
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The records that I buy new rarely need more than these tools as I take good care of them. The cheap finds though often need a good bath. </div>
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For this I have a SpinClean which works well when I have a large batch to do. It will work for 25 to 50 records on one fill, and can sit for several days or a week if I don't have that many to do at once, or much time. </div>
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http://www.spincleanrecordwasher.com/</div>
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When I have just to a few to clean I have another technique. This involves a home brew mix of distilled water (90%), 99% isopropyl alcohol (10%) and a dish soap (a few drops). This goes in a spray bottle. I have another spray bottle with just distilled water in it for rinsing. </div>
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I lay a towel out on the counter top or my smooth top stove, and lay the dirty record on that. The one below is not that bad. </div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8555840155/" title="Record dirty by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Record dirty" height="446" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8555840155_5e2539de34_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I give the record 5 or 6 squirts from the bottle, trying to avoid the label.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8555839475/" title="Record wet by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Record wet" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8555839475_648af29c49_z.jpg" width="626" /></a><br />
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Now I take a paint pad, the kind you use for edges and corners, and use it in a circular motion to scrub the record using light pressure. The thousands of short bristles work well to work into the groves. I do this for 30 seconds or more, then flip the record and do the other side.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8556949002/" title="Record brushing by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Record brushing" height="613" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8371/8556949002_067ca7e446_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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After washing I rinse under the tap in the kitchen sink. I have a water filter built in and there is little added to Vancouver water anyway, so I feel this is usually just fine. After rinsing both sides, I let the water run off and place the record upright in the dish drainer to dry. I will sometimes give them a wipe with a soft cloth, usually microfibre, to hasten the process.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8555838261/" title="Record rinsing by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Record rinsing" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8555838261_620ce7d70b_z.jpg" width="607" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8556947858/" title="Record drying by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Record drying" height="554" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8556947858_1bdf19ca80_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Sometimes the label gets a bit wet, but I have not had one damaged by this yet. I know some people will make elaborate clamps to protect the label, but so far I don't see the need.<br />
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There are also those that will use devices that cost hundreds of dollars to do much the same as I do, including motorized and suction devices to pull away the washing liquid. However I can't justify that expense and feel that my method works well enough and is far superior to doing nothing or some simple "spread the dirt around" brushes that I see.<br />
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This won't take a really abused & scratched record and make it new again, but it will help with dusty, mildewed and finger print covered vinyl. I can see and hear dramatic improvements in the records I clean with my simple methods that anyone can do for a very small outlay in money and time. Not counting the Spin Clean (which cost me about $70 on sale), the paint pad method described above should cost only about $10 to 20 for the fluid, brush, and the cloth to dry the records and be enough to do many records. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8544934941/" title="Titanium Magic Eraser by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Titanium Magic Eraser" height="440" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8227/8544934941_6282709d16_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Oh, yeah I was going to mention the Magic Eraser. This little thing is a minor abrasive based on melamine I think, that can be used for all kinds of things. How it is used to clean a stylus is simply by lowering the needle into a block of the white stuff a few times, preferably using the cuing lever. The lint and other accumulated crap is removed by the minute pressure of the tonearm tracking force.<br />
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You can use a small block of the Magic Eraser that you cut off the store-bought size, or do as I did and make a neat little holder for it such as in the above picture. The metal cylinder is a piece of titanium tube that I cut off the end of an old handlebar years ago. The tube is just sharp enough to make it's own cookie cutter stamp right through the Magic Eraser. Below is another block I made from part of a light fixture.<br />
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But you don't need to do anything special; I was just having fun with it!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8530741454/" title="Magic Eraser 3 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Magic Eraser 3" height="363" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8234/8530741454_6846b1c3c9_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-25615730647690556922013-03-03T01:24:00.001-08:002013-03-03T01:30:06.190-08:00A $15 NAD Trifecta almost pans out. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I visited a thrift store that I don't get to often today. I have found a couple of things there in the past, but it is not close to me and it can be a bit odoriferous there and not so much fun to browse.<br />
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It's an SPCA store and the place has always smelled of cat pee. It's better now but being winter-ish weather they don't have the doors open. Apparently the long term old manager who did not care what the cats did inside is gone and they have cleaned it somewhat but it still can assault the senses at times. It may be an SPCA store but you still have to put the cats out when they need to go!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8522908334/" title="NAD stack by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD stack" height="389" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8522908334_caabbc2d02_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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As soon as I walked in I thought I might be on to something though. Obviously recently arrivals as they were still in a box and not on the shelves were a couple of pieces of NAD gear. I have always had a soft spot for NAD so I dove in.<br />
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I found the 701 stereo receiver, a 6220 tape deck and the <span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;">5355e CD player, and ended up with all 3 for $5 each. I had to look around for a power cord for the CD player and a place to plug them in to test but eventually I managed to get some lights on all 3 units. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;"><br />
</span> <span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;">The receiver appeared to work, but had what I knew to to be a very common problem with NAD and that was burnt out bulbs in the back light assembly for the LCD display. I have had several pieces where this is the case and have managed to fix them all. The good thing is that the thrift stores take the lack of display as a sign of not working at all. For most people that might be a big problem, but not for me, and the receiver was offered to me at $5.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;"><br />
</span> <span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;">The same price applied to the tape deck and the CD player. The tape deck worried me the most as the displayed LEDs for the meter were all lighting and I wasn't sure that it would be worth any investment to fix. However it turned out to be the easiest as all it took was a bit of tapping inside to find a bad connection and it worked fine. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;"><br />
</span> <span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;">The CD player seems to have a bad laser assembly though. Most of the controls appear to work, but it does not recognize a disc in the tray. I might be able to find a TOPH 7810 somewhere though and install that...That is the reason for the "almost pans out" title of the post. I might have to spend some more money to make the CD player work, if I can do it at all. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;"><br />
</span> <span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;">Anyway, the 701 looks good now that I have installed some blue LEDs in the backlight housing. It works great. i am recording some Santana for the tape deck in the car right now!</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;"><br />
</span> <span style="background-color: #f5f5ff; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333015441895px;"> </span> </div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8524023942/" title="NAD set by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD set" height="493" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8524023942_117ecedd63_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Here are some pics of the process of fixing the 701 backlight display.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8522218821/" title="NAD 701 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD 701" height="426" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8512/8522218821_9fb7a74b96_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The original bulb is soldered in and has a supply voltage of about 12 volts DC. I have picked up some LEDs specifically for this purpose so I was ready to go. One LED is often going to provide too localized a display and potentially too focused. Some of the LEDs I bought are frosted to help prevent this.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8523330812/" title="NAD 701 bulb by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD 701 bulb" height="434" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8523330812_cc565b74b2_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8523329572/" title="NAD 701 LED by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD 701 LED" height="516" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8523329572_cc43294420_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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After removing the original bulb from the small PC board at the back of the display I wired 2 in series with a small resistor. I drilled a couple of new holes in the PCB to hold the LED leads, and used one of the terminals on the the PCB to connect one side of the circuit, and the other one with the resistor I made an off board junction with the supply voltage line but covered it in heat shrionk tubing.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8523327976/" title="NAD 701 LED 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD 701 LED 2" height="480" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8095/8523327976_aaf9735e86_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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It ended up working quite well. I had damaged the tabs that held the small PCB in place but it had also been glued in and I did this as well. The colour is darker than the original and much more to the Indigo side of things but I think it looks good!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8522212939/" title="NAD LED display by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD LED display" height="397" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8228/8522212939_768cbb54f8_z.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8524023942/" title="NAD set by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD set" height="493" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8524023942_117ecedd63_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-51852218293620290562013-01-27T00:07:00.000-08:002013-01-27T00:07:08.554-08:00A Smoking NAD Repair!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8413163686/" title="NAD 7020 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD 7020" height="376" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8333/8413163686_5f1ca65f43_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The NAD 7020 I brought home to fix the other day was calling to me, so I started on it yesterday and finished it today. I almost finished it real good, but the smoke seems to have cleared.<br />
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I have always liked NAD equipment. The brand does have it's detractors with stories of cheap parts and poor quality control. I don't have much against them, as I have always liked the performance for the dollar being the cheapo that I am while still wanting good sound. I don't even mind the look which others put down. I have had more devices from NAD than just about all other brands, and kept them for longer on average. I do admit I've also had to fix more of them...<br />
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I used to have the NAD 3020 which was the integrated amplifier section of the 7020 receiver model. With that in mind I really wanted to play with this one from Clint.<br />
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Cosmetically this is in very good shape and has just a few minor scratches. It needed a good cleaning though. The usual dusting inside and cleaning of the switches and controls with contact cleaner I did yesterday. After plugging it it though I found another annoying issue.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8419498188/" title="NAD power switch 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD power switch 2" height="366" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8234/8419498188_abd16601ac_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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When turned on, even after another spray of contact cleaner in the switch area, the lights and also the sound to a degree sputtered and flickered. I've seen this before and decided to see if I could deal with it. It usually comes from electrical arcing in the switch and I saw it most seriously in a Pioneer SA-450 receiver, and I still have not fully addressed it there. The culprit in the Pioneer and as it turned out in the NAD was an ALPS brand switch.<br />
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It's a different model this time and appeared to be easier to access so I decided to go for it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8419499052/" title="NAD power switch by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD power switch" height="506" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8419499052_89fa907920_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Disassembly had to come after removing around 20 screws to get the cabinet and face plate out of the way, plus a number of wires to de-solder. The parts inside the switch of course decided to sproing out before I got a good look at how they went together. Figuring out how they went back together was trail and error...and trial and error...and so on, for about an hour until I had it right.<br />
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Anyway, age, dirt corrosion and so on lead to the arcing which blackens the switch contacts with soot or something similar. Taking things apart and scraping & sanding is just about the only way to address it. A simple spray cleaner does not do the job when it gets like this.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8418403117/" title="NAD switch parts by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD switch parts" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8418403117_b4701ce0e1_z.jpg" width="612" /></a><br />
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When I first saw it the round pad on the lower piece was as black or worse than the part above it that it had to make electrical contact with in order to turn on the receiver. There is another set inside the switch as well. Scraping with a screwdriver blade and sanding with emery paper cleaned things up quite well. This was the easy part. Now I had to put it back together.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8419500104/" title="NAD power switch 3 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD power switch 3" height="532" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8467/8419500104_1a31acc2a8_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8418404065/" title="NAD power switch 4 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD power switch 4" height="634" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8493/8418404065_3831ef9022_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Eventually I managed to figure it all out, had it reassembled and soldered together and had no flickering when I powered it on. So I reassembled the case, with the 20 screws of different lengths. <br />
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That's when the next problem arose. I had tested it before and the receiver had worked with headphones, tuning in AM & FM radio stations. Connecting a turntable and speakers came next... and so did the smoke!<br />
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It made sound, but a little curl came up from the cabinet in the tuner area. Powering it off and examining it, it looked like the smoke had come from a point on the main circuit board near one of the screws on the bottom panel. I am pretty sure I simply used a longer screw in that hole than it should have had and it must have contacted the foil side of the printed circuit board.<br />
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I moved some screws around, making sure the shortest ones were in those areas. I am only talking about a difference of 3 or 4 mm at most, but it was critical.<br />
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Anyway, no more smoke and it works great! No sparking, flickering, or scratchy sounds...just music! <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8418405045/" title="NAD 7020 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="NAD 7020 2" height="282" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8072/8418405045_aa803ec3be_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-73483536015830289462013-01-24T18:49:00.000-08:002013-01-24T18:51:45.154-08:00A Quick Kenwood Repair<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">I did a trip with my friend Clint out to <a href="http://www.puresoundbc.com/" target="_blank">Pure Sound</a> today. We took in a Sansui amp, a Dynaco SCA-80Q and a Harman Kardon 630. I had had a look at the H/K and the Dynaco and they were both items that I did not want to take on trying to repair. The fellow there is a real audio technician; I'm just a hack. <br />
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Later I went back to Clint's shop and dropped off a Kenwood KD990 turntable which was one of my faster turntable repair turnarounds. Thankfully it was simple as the circuitry in this would have been tricky to work with. In fact it was not much worse than the best case scenario of a blow fuse, but it did not have fuses.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8413143974/" title="Kenwood KD990 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8223/8413143974_edf5b0aeef_z.jpg" width="561" height="640" alt="Kenwood KD990"></a><br />
<br />
It turned out to be (probably) just dirty contacts or sticky switches. It would not power on at first, and after opening it up and checking to see if it was getting power to the circuit board at the brown/red/black wires near the top, I simply detached the 2 circuit boards that the microswitches attach to and cleaned them with contact cleaner. I also pulled the black ribbon cables out of their sockets and cleaned those contacts.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8413145752/" title="Kenwood KD990 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8413145752_6540d610aa_z.jpg" width="640" height="376" alt="Kenwood KD990 2"></a><br />
<br />
Back together it went and it worked!<br />
<br />
It's a very nice and high quality turntable, weighing about 14 kilos. Unfortunately this one is a bit beat up which is quite the shame. The piano gloss black finish is not my favourite as it easily shows marks and this has more than a few of those. It also is missing a dustcover, and had an ugly Sansui headshell with an even uglier Stanton DJ cartridge on it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8413147184/" title="Kenwwod KD990 3 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8055/8413147184_d533ce5394_z.jpg" width="640" height="411" alt="Kenwwod KD990 3"></a><br />
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When I took it back to Space Lab, I moved the cartridge to a better looking shell that was at least closer to the original model (not shown). I do like the tonearm with it's machined look. The antiskate is an interesting variation on the weight on a fishing line concept.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8413148036/" title="Kenwwod KD990 4 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8088/8413148036_eac9123f93_z.jpg" width="640" height="530" alt="Kenwwod KD990 4"></a><br />
<br />
Anyway I did not get to to play with this one too much. It worked and sounded fine on the single record I played on it, but then it went back to the shop to go on display. And I am on to the next project, a NAD 7020!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8413163686/" title="NAD 7020 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8333/8413163686_5f1ca65f43_z.jpg" width="640" height="376" alt="NAD 7020"></a><br />
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</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-39618332064856471752013-01-06T19:08:00.001-08:002013-01-07T21:53:08.469-08:00Oh No! It's a new media format!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8355536501/" title="Sony Tapes by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Sony Tapes" height="376" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8355536501_c32bc65ab8_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
No it is not a new digital thing to take over from CD, Blu Ray MP3 or whatever. It's actually a very old format... Reel to Reel tapes. It's just new to me.<br />
<br />
Even that is not quite true. I have used RtoR a lot but that was back in the 1970's either at home with cheezy portables or at CHSR radio at university where I used some very good gear and was pretty good recording and editing on it. I might have to relearn some of those skills.<br />
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I answered a Free ad on Craigslist and was not the first in line but the other guy could not make it in from Surrey right away and the owner called me back. The Akai 1730D-SS tape deck and the Akai AA-6100 amplifier that he gave me with it are still in the car (so no pics yet) but I got manuals, about 30 tapes, a tape head demagnetizer plus some Dual turntable parts and brochures too. Even the Puma sports bag was almost worth the trip.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8356593432/" title="Akai 1730D-SS by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Akai 1730D-SS" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8052/8356593432_b3d5e710b2_z.jpg" width="509" /></a><br />
<br />
I don't know where I am going to put this but it should be fun to play with! At least it came with an instant music collection so I don't have to search that out right away. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8356595910/" title="Akai AA-6100 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Akai AA-6100" height="459" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8071/8356595910_9c9b383bb9_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />
...I couldn't resist. I went down to the car and brought them up for a quick test before bed. I have Janis Joplin (backed with The Stones - Get Yer YaYa's Out) on the phones right now. It looks like the tapes were all recorded at 3 3/4ips and 2 sided. They are also about 40 years old, and the amp & tape deck have not been cleaned in any way so far so the fidelity and noise level is not the best, but they work!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8357321198/" title="Akai tape deck by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Akai tape deck" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8496/8357321198_421041dd57_z.jpg" width="603" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8356259273/" title="Akai amp by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Akai amp" height="351" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8196/8356259273_42cc795c27_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-78755928999947500412012-12-19T23:40:00.001-08:002012-12-19T23:46:06.660-08:00I took a U-Turn the other day<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
Or rather I will take, or maybe get, a U-Turn sometime next year.<br />
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<a href="http://www.uturnaudio.com/" target="_blank">U-Turn Audio</a> is a start-up venture by 3 young guys (geeks? nerds? hipsters?) with big dreams. Dreams of building a turntable they can bring to the masses at an affordable price but with great performance for the dollar. <br />
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<a href="http://www.uturnaudio.com/test/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/black5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="130" src="http://www.uturnaudio.com/test/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/black5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
They have been working on the project for over a year now and hope to have the turntable hit the market by the middle of 2013. A few days ago they launched a <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/uturnaudio/the-orbit-turntable-0?ref=live" target="_blank">Kickstarter</a> campaign where essentially you pledge to support the product launch. Various dollar commitments will get you things from stickers to t-shirts to custom painted versions of their turntable.<br />
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I signed up. $150 is not a lot of money really and I am even thinking of upgrading to the next level of $250 so that I can get the acrylic platter and that green colour. I don't know about that colour but maybe I should go for it. It would be different from the other 10 or 15 turntables I have at least! It's not like I need another one, but if I eventually do get it (Kickstarter campaigns are not guaranteed) it should be worth it, from what I have read about the design so far.<br />
<br />
The design of this turntable is very simple, and something similar to what I would like to try to build myself some day. I don't plan to mass market any ideas but would like to try my hand at it. Now where is my CNC machine?<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/uturnaudio/the-orbit-turntable-0/widget/video.html" width="480"> </iframe><br /></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-26503504858677522892012-11-26T00:07:00.000-08:002012-11-26T00:07:25.629-08:00Trying to get organized...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Yes I have to clean up and get some organization. My dining room has been a disaster lately and we won't even talk about the living room.<br />
<br />
Some storage drawers will help with the various components: one for fasteners and fittings like RCA jacks and speaker binding posts, another for resisters, capacitors, coils and another for belts, lamps, LEDs and wire. That's a start...<br />
<br />
Selling some of the extraneous turntables and receivers is part of the plan and having a better spot to display them for photos and auditioning will help. The new record cabinet helped as it gives me a good spot to highlight pieces. I turned an empty console stereo cabinet into a storage unit for 300 or more records in a few hours. It holds about 1/4 of my record collection but the rest of them are at least in some other form of shelving. These ones were just in piles until the other day.<br />
<br />
Before: <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8209379591/" title="Cabinet by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Cabinet" height="476" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8206/8209379591_3277c46676_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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After: <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8210690304/" title="Record cabinet by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Record cabinet" height="640" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8201/8210690304_1f88cb2bf0_z.jpg" width="416" /></a><br />
<br />
After getting this corner of my small place cleaned up I was able to quickly set up and swap in and out several pieces of gear for photos. One sold right away and others had interest. Another I just took the pictures for and did not advertise as I don't know if I can sell it...yet!<br />
<br />
First, the Akai AP-004x turntable which is a very attractive turntable and a Sanyo DCX-1970k receiver.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8215252898/" title="Akai AP-004x 3 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Akai AP-004x 3" height="381" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8199/8215252898_536acfe62f_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The Akai deserves another picture:<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8214169511/" title="Akai AP-004x 4 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Akai AP-004x 4" height="371" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8214169511_e2baca39f0_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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This cute little Sansui R-5 receiver sold practically immediately after I Craigslisted it:<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8214177731/" title="Sansui R-5.1 jpg by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Sansui R-5.1 jpg" height="283" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8339/8214177731_e52a5e788d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The Technics SL-D2 was up next:<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8214191597/" title="Technics SL-D2 4 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Technics SL-D2 4" height="434" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8478/8214191597_1a51192f9d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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And one of the receivers I am not sure I want to sell, but took the pictures anyway, is the Mitsubishi DA-R10. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8214183307/" title="Mitsubishi DA-R10 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Mitsubishi DA-R10" height="479" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8059/8214183307_59815e93b9_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I know I should get rid of it...pay some bills, reduce, unclutter...but darn! I like it...<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8214185521/" title="Mitsubishi DA-R10 3 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Mitsubishi DA-R10 3" height="358" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8479/8214185521_f264c369bc_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-62294217717497304122012-11-22T00:33:00.000-08:002012-11-22T00:33:05.622-08:00I have to start selling some of this stuff<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The last little while I have definitely been taking in more than is moving out. Today I picked up a Scott turntable, model PS-87. A few days ago I went to get a Technics SL-D2 and an SL-1700 MKII, and the guy also gave me a Sansui FR-1080.<br />
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Scott PS-87 (before)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8207148151/" title="Scott top by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Scott top" height="374" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8209/8207148151_50dfd0930d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8208239744/" title="Scott tonearm by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Scott tonearm" height="264" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8338/8208239744_847b48d136.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8207153945/" title="Scott strobe by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Scott strobe" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8207153945_41ee67164b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8208238698/" title="Scott dirty by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Scott dirty" height="277" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8348/8208238698_e103bfd839.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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The Scott was filthy but has already cleaned up nicely and as has the SL-D2. The Sansui and Scott will need some lid sanding and polishing that I should get to tomorrow. Once that is done and I do some tweaking on all of them they should be ready to hit the road, or at least Craigslist.<br />
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Scott PS-87 (after)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8207145623/" title="Scott clean 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Scott clean 2" height="398" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8338/8207145623_ed021d4de1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8208234258/" title="Scott clean by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Scott clean" height="304" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8058/8208234258_d021a461bf.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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The Scott looks like a solidly built and pretty good quality piece. Not top of the line by any means but a capable direct drive with a nice heavy mdf plinth, large transformer and motor and very nice controls. I will need to repair the tonearm lock and the arm lifter platform as they are both broken but I am some plans that I think will work out.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8207143459/" title="Scott bottom by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Scott bottom" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8200/8207143459_ea391f51a4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8207152711/" title="Scott inside 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Scott inside 2" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8202/8207152711_79be0541e7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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In addition to the tables mentioned above, I am soon going to be able to finish off the the Technics 1300 and the Akai AP-004X. I have the new cables for the 1300 and the headshell for the Akai will soon be here.<br />
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I should have lots of record players ready for that Christmas rush! <br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-11187238863689857582012-11-12T23:41:00.000-08:002012-11-16T00:07:10.631-08:00The Gear Still Flows<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8173059076/" title="DSC_0093 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="DSC_0093" height="426" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8489/8173059076_a83851813c_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<br />
I've been happily listening to my Technics 1200 and have swapped back in the Yamaha CR-820 that arrived from Seattle several weeks ago, after a few weeks with a Carver MXR-130 hooked up. The Technics still has a minor issue or 2 which hopefully I can resolve and so does the Carver.<br />
<br />
The turntable speed still has a tendency to fluctuate for a few seconds when I first turn it on. This is probably circuitry or solder joints that are suspect but it might just be the pitch slider. I am going to order one from KAB as that is a relative simple and inexpensive item to replace.<br />
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The record above, by the way, is Muddy Waters at the Checkerboard Lounge in Chicago, recorded 1981. It's a great package of a double album, 1 black vinyl and 1 white, plus a DVD of the show. Most of the Rolling Stones (Mick, Keith and Ronnie) showed up Muddy was soon joined on the tiny stage by all 3 of them. Terrific show and a nice presentation in this recent release. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8106268808/" title="Carver MXR-130 Receiver 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Carver MXR-130 Receiver 2" height="193" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8183/8106268808_b6f0073268_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I don't have any pictures of the Yamaha yet but the Carver I have snapped. I listened to it for a few weeks essentially without issue and have done nothing to it internally or externally as it is in nearly perfect shape. A couple of the controls are a touch scratchy & in need of cleaning and the lamp behind <b><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">CARVER</span></b> is burnt out. When I switched it to the tuner the other day I found the first indication of the issue that the previous owner pointed out and one that is well documented with the Carver receivers. The tuner tends to stop working or perform erratically and that is exactly what this did.<br />
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Being as well known as this issue is and Carver being not only well known but also not a cheap piece of crap, it has also a well documented set of repairs. There is an issue of a trim capacitor and an IC in the tuning circuit that are prone to fail. In addition the output relays and some resisters are frequently problematic. In fact there is a vendor on ebay that markets kits with instructions for just these repairs.<br />
<br />
I am going to proceed with most if not all of the failure prone areas even if only the tuner is currently causing problems (and the bulb and pot cleaning from above). I ordered the tuner <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">TC9147BP integrated circuit from ebay, though from a different vendor, and will get the relays and other parts as well. As usual I like to try to upgrade if I can, and I will actually install a socket for the IC instead of direct soldering to the printed circuit board. I don't want to burn the IC and I figure out of 42 pins I might mess up 1 or 2 and overheat the darn thing. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Carver won't be a keeper. I don't need 130 watts (!) per side, or is that over 150? It's the same receiver apparently as the MXR-150 and they both don't clip until around 157 watts. It's cool and all that, but I figure with the amount I spent on it plus the time and parts I will come out well ahead if & when I sell it. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8137152315/" title="Akai AP-004X by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Akai AP-004X" height="374" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8137152315_4032455a1d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
</span></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8106269042/" title="Sansui R-5 by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Sansui R-5" height="204" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8183/8106269042_447b376ab6_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A few more things will go on the block soon too. I have a recently acquired Akai AP-004X turntable that will clean up nicely. A Sanyo receiver and a small Sansui R-5 receiver will complement one of my turntables just fine and along with a set of just refoamed EPI 100 speakers will be an ideal system. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Actually though the best match for that Akai even though not quite of the same period would be the Mitsubishi DA-R10 with its rosewood finish. I will be sad to see it go but I fear it must...</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> <br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/6706135521/" title="Mitsubishi DA-R10 top by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Mitsubishi DA-R10 top" height="443" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6706135521_36d55b2a1d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07907913526416795485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2842679627672587079.post-15333068651628588322012-10-10T21:55:00.003-07:002012-10-17T21:09:52.245-07:00The 1200 is ALIVE!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br /></div>
<br />
I got back into finishing the Technics 1200 in the last few days. I had been putting it off while waiting for parts, working on other projects or just procrastinating. However once I started again I finished in 2 evenings. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8075976593/" title="Heat shrink Technics tonearm by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Heat shrink Technics tonearm" height="360" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8075976593_75ccd3e39d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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One of the problems with waiting as long as I did was the possibility of losing pieces and or just forgetting what went where. The good thing about this turntable is that there are so many pictures, forum threads, how-to's, documents and videos about it that as long as I had a computer near I could not get too lost. </div>
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I still wish some of the parts came with some form of instructions though. KAB has some so-so pictures on his site but nothing at all comes with the actual parts, such as the hinges or turret board. Even suggested wire routing, or a parts list or sequence of assembly. I am very mechanically inclined but even so. I also think I might not have received some of the screws with the hinges. I could be wrong about that but anyway I managed to find some appropriate bolts in one of my bins. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8075978153/" title="Technics tonearm rewiring by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Technics tonearm rewiring" height="426" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8194/8075978153_1a1eec8481_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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In the first pic above you can see the tonearm after internal wiring was updated with new Cardas 33g wire. I also added some cotton batting inside the arm as damping material to reduce resonance. The black stuff on the outside is heat shrink tubing to help play a similar role. However it looked ugly in that on the curves and ends it developed wrinkles. Pretty ugly and of probably very small sonic benefit, so I stripped it off. <br />
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The second pic shows the underside of the arm with the new terminal board attached. The tonearm wire meets the external wiring at the 5 pin strip here. This replaces a small printed circuit board that Technics originally installed. <br />
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Some instructions online make things look dead easy. Easie-Peasie in fact if you can believe the English bloke on YouTube who has lots of videos on the 1200. He describes how to thread the 2 base parts together using the 0 marking on the height adjustment scale as a guide and he gets it right first try in a few seconds. The Technics Service Manual says use the 3 (scale is from 0 to 6 for millimetres of height adjustment) as your starting point. I tried at least 5 or 6 timed before I got it right, and using the Technics method, not his. <br />
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The next photo just shows an alternate view, plus the record weight I had powder-coated at the same time. Below that is a top view of the new KAB interconnect board. This attaches on the same bolts (longer ones than stock) as the right side hinge. This external connection enables you to use your choice of RCA cables. I don't particularly like the wires being as exposed as they are, but I used a bit of tape to anchor them somewhat, but I think I will also make a small clamp or sleeve to attach to the underside of the table to protect the wire. <br />
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Another thing I supplied myself was some adhesive backed felt from a fabric store. This went under the pitch control slot and directly on top of the control itself and acts as a dust shield. Another piece goes on the underside of the knob itself.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8075978369/" title="Another Technics View by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Another Technics View" height="250" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8191/8075978369_2e524412ff_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8075970334/" title="External RCA by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="External RCA" height="228" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8183/8075970334_423ab7bd6f_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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And finally the end result! <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8073333798/" title="Technics 1200 MKII new lid by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Technics 1200 MKII new lid" height="387" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8321/8073333798_e5b58ee959_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I am practically ecstatic with how good it looks. It also works great (but see below) and sounds terrific. I still have to fine tune a few things and there are still a couple of issues. <br />
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The cartridge position has to be checked, the VTA (tonearm height) and the anti-skate verified. One of the issues is that the tonearm rest does not fit this arm well. The mount for it on the old arm was just slightly different. I had to gently ream out a bit to make this fit, and I don't have the right nut or spacer for it. It also won't quite clamp the arm properly. I think that just maybe it was not from the same model of turntable. With the damage that was done to the old tonearm I would be surprised if this was also replaced at some point. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bede/8073333552/" title="Technics MKII lid up by Buhduh, on Flickr"><img alt="Technics MKII lid up" height="408" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8042/8073333552_f74167ec2e_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The bigger concern is a bit of speed instability. The pitch slider is supposed to completely lock the speed at the centre setting. It adjusts speed up or down by 8% over the range. When I first turn the table on it sometimes seems spot on, but other times runs very fast in the middle of the scale. It can be zeroed at a postition just off centre but that bugs me. When I have played a side or 2 it seems to stabilize and zero means zero. I have more testing to do, and some troubleshooting. <br />
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A lot of my stuff has been coming courtesy of KABUSA, just so you know.<br />
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